Japanese maple questions and answers – 4a
October 28, 2009 – 6:53 pm | One Comment

Further information regarding Japanese maple question no.4 has been received (re-printed below) and I’ll clarify all the points raised.
I think this was the second summer that I had the trees. I put them in these …

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Home » Japanese maple pruning

Pruning a Japanese maple – don’t try this at home

Submitted by John on July 1, 2009 – 4:40 pm3 Comments

How not to prune a Japanese maple would be a more accurate title of the video above that I recently came across on Youtube. The biggest mistake is pruning in the summer, the second worst time of the year to do any remedial work or shaping to a Japanese maple. To understand why, a basic appreciation of the annual growth cycle that a maple goes through is helpful.

As the plant comes in to growth in the spring there is very little root activity and growth is fueled by the food reserves in the roots. As the new shoots develop a small amount of root activity starts and this is limited to the fine feeding roots that will take up nutrients to supplement the existing reserves that are rapidly being used up.

Once all the spring shoot growth has finished, the leaves start the job of building up the food reserves for next spring and this is when development of the primary roots start, i.e., those roots that are going to eventually become part of the basic root structure of the plant. These are sometimes known as water roots and their activity becomes more pronounced as the plant goes into late summer and early autumn.

The picture below shows the development of the root system in early July, clearly showing the primary roots that will store the food reserves for next year’s growth. The finer, feeding roots can also be seen but these take a secondary role in the long term health of the root system.

Acer palmatum root system

Acer palmatum root system

The development of these roots and their subsequent importance to next year’s growth is entirely dependent on the leaves the plant has at the above time of year and any wholesale removal as shown in this video is going to curtail their development and lead to reduced growth next spring. Although the plant will eventually recover in a few years, the net effect is going to be a drastic reduction in the amount of growth next spring.

The rationale for the pruning was to give the shrubs next to it room to grow. A far better option would have been to remove the shrubs and give them their own bed elsewhere; the existing bed being barely large enough for no more than a few year’s growth before it starts impinging on the lawn next!

As to the decision to show the trunk, the whole point of planting a dissectum form is for it to weep to the ground. This particular plant is, in all probability, a top-worked graft and the trunk is actually the understock, but grafted higher than normal to give it some height to cascade down from. The comment ‘we want to see the trunk and give it a more tree-like look’ is incompatible with this particular form and a far better option would have been to plant Seiryu instead.

This video generated a number of comments that questioned the aesthetics of what was done to this Japanese maple and you can read them here.

One subject that the presenter didn’t touch on is the matter of the ground that was originally shaded by the maple now being exposed to the sun. Previously, the canopy would have kept the soil cool and allow roots to come up to the surface as the moisture level would be fairly constant. With the soil exposed, fine surface roots are going to dry out and the moisture level of the soil is going to drop rapidly, to the detriment of the plant. This is compounded by the pruning being done in the middle of summer. No mention either of giving supplementary irrigation until the plant has recovered.

The obvious solution is to immediately water the plant thoroughly and then mulch the surface with an impermeable barrier so there is no interruption or variation in the moisture available to the plant; the alternative is going to be badly scorched leaves.

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3 Comments »

  • Jay Bradshaw says:

    It’s unfortunate that his company has the word Wisdom in it. Plants grow according to day length. The longest day of the year is in late June. Passing July 4th put your pruners away and here’s why. Pruning and fertilizing is stimulative. Pruning in mid to late summer is like taking 2 shots of espresso right before you go to bed.
    The plant doesn’t shut down all the way and may produce new “green” stems which won’t harden before winter and any freezing weather will damage or kill the plant. When a plant starts to go dormant it sends starches/food down to the roots for winter use. You can prune a JM in the fall when it’s past the point of no return. In OR mid Sept-Oct. is fine. The food from the branches you removed already sent food down to the roots and next spring there will be more food for fewer branches. Its good to spray a fungicide a couple of times within 2 weeks to keep the crud out.
    The rest of the pruning didnt take into consideration revealing the structure of the tree (one of the most beautiful aspects of JM’s)
    Many people do this type of pruning and end up with a green umbrella evening all the weeping branches.
    Last point is to thin out all the dead/crossing branches to allow air flow through the plant. Bugs and fungus love static environments. See if you can find a picture of the Japanese maple in the Oregon Garden…awesoooome. Here’s a winter pic.

    http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3095/3229089167_11b316b95f_o.jpg

    Found the Oregon maple…
    http://farm1.static.flickr.com/111/281619003_79b41be2e3.jpg?v=0

  • What I find a bit odd with the video – potentially – is maybe how much was pruned-away in one session in summer.

    Dr. Alex Shigo the Father of modern arboriculture, wrote in a tree biology book that the optimum time of year would occur twice a year, right after the leaves emerge, and right after the leaves drop off. A so called generic “perfect” time of year. Within two pages though, he mentioned that pruning can be done “any” time of year. And the context would not mean heavy pruning.

    The cold months do seem to be a prime season though.

    Cheers,

    MDV
    Oregon

  • John says:

    The reason given for pruning the tree in the summer was because the client wanted it done. A properly trained arboriculturalist would have a duty to advise the client of the negative consequences of pruning at that time of year, not only for Japanese maples but all trees and shrubs.

    Presumably Dr. Shigo didn’t elaborate on the phrase ‘right after the leaves emerge’, but in practice this would be once initial growth had stopped and shoots had started to lignify. Major sap flow would have ceased and little or no bleeding would occur. The drawback, however, is you deprive the plant of the ability to build up food reserves; after all, that’s what the leaves are designed to do! We are then left with one perfect time of year, just after leaf fall.

    The reference to pruning at any time of the year (excluding the period of heavy sap flow) is, strictly speaking, correct but, as you point out, would be limited to very light pruning and specifically only the pinching out of shoot tips to control growth.

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